How to Hang Wallpaper

Identify Your Wallpaper Type

Before you do anything else, figure out which type of wallpaper you have. The hanging method depends on it.

• Pre-pasted wallpaper. Adhesive is dry-applied to the back at the factory. Activated by soaking in water for 30 seconds. Older style, still common at the consumer end of the market.
• Non-woven wallpaper (paste-the-wall). Backing is a polyester-cellulose blend that is dimensionally stable. Paste is applied to the wall, not the wallpaper. The industry standard for boutique wallpaper.
• Peel-and-stick wallpaper. Vinyl-faced sheet with a pressure-sensitive adhesive backing. Peel and apply directly. Most forgiving for first-timers.

The type is usually marked on the roll label. If unsure, look at the back: pre-pasted has a visible adhesive coating, non-woven looks like a fabric or felt, peel-and-stick has a smooth release liner.

Tools and Supplies You Will Need

A short kit covers all three types. Most items can be borrowed.

• Your wallpaper rolls
• A 4-foot level (laser level optional but helpful)
• A plastic smoother or squeegee (a credit card works in a pinch)
• A sharp utility knife with extra blades for trimming
• A 6-inch metal straight edge
• Measuring tape and pencil
• For pre-pasted: a wallpaper tray for water
• For non-woven: wallpaper paste, a paste brush or roller, a bucket
• For peel-and-stick: nothing extra (the adhesive is built in)
• Wallpaper primer (recommended for all three types on bare or freshly painted drywall)
• A clean damp sponge for wiping excess paste or smoothing as you go
• A step ladder if your ceilings are over 8 feet

How to Prep Your Walls

Wall prep is the single biggest factor in install success across every wallpaper type. The general rule from This Old House's "How to Hang Wallpaper" guide applies universally: "Make sure your walls are smooth, clean and dry."

1. Wipe the wall with a damp cloth. Remove all dust, debris, cobwebs, grease, and smoke residue. Let dry completely.
2. Fill any small holes or dents with lightweight spackle. Sand smooth when dry.
3. Confirm the paint has fully cured. If freshly painted, wait at least 30 days before hanging wallpaper. Fresh paint releases moisture as it cures, which hurts wallpaper adhesive bond.
4. If the wall has heavy texture (knockdown, popcorn, brick), see our guide on Can You Put Wallpaper on Textured Walls?. Light orange peel can usually accept paste-the-wall non-woven. Anything heavier needs prep.
5. Apply wallpaper primer (sometimes called wallpaper sizing) on bare drywall, freshly painted walls, or porous surfaces. Let cure 24 hours.

Skipping the primer step is the most common cause of seam lifting and bubbles weeks after install. The drywall industry calls a wallpaper-ready surface a Level 4 finish; below that, the texture telegraphs through.

Plan the Layout and Hang the First Strip

The right starting point prevents problems that compound across the wall. For most accent walls, start at the center and work outward in both directions. This puts any pattern asymmetry on the corners (where it is least noticed) instead of in the middle of the wall.

Find center: measure the wall width, divide by two, mark with a pencil at eye level. Then drop a plumb line straight down from that mark. As This Old House instructs: "Using a 4-foot level, draw a plumb line at that mark." This vertical line is your reference for the first strip, not the wall corner (which is rarely actually plumb).

If the wall has a focal feature (window, fireplace, headboard) that should be centered in the pattern, align your plumb line to that feature instead.

How to Hang Pre-Pasted Wallpaper

Pre-pasted wallpaper has the adhesive built into the back. You activate it with water before hanging.

1. Cut the strip to wall height plus 4 inches (2 inches at top, 2 inches at bottom for trimming).
2. Roll the strip loosely with the pasted side facing inward. Submerge in a tray of cool water for 30 seconds.
3. Slowly pull the strip out and accordion-fold the wet strip on itself, pasted sides together. Let sit 3 to 5 minutes (called "booking") to let the adhesive activate.
4. Carry the booked strip to the wall, unfold the top half, align with your plumb line, and press the top onto the wall. Let the bottom half drop down naturally.
5. Smooth from center outward with your plastic smoother. Wipe excess paste squeeze-out at seams and edges with a damp sponge before it dries.

Do not soak longer than the maker instructs (usually 30 seconds). Over-soaked pre-pasted wallpaper loses bond strength.

How to Hang Non-Woven Paste-the-Wall Wallpaper

Non-woven wallpaper is the industry standard for top boutique wallpaper. It is the easiest of the wet-paste methods because the wallpaper itself stays dry during install.

1. Cut the strip to wall height plus 4 inches.
2. Apply wallpaper paste directly to the wall using a paste brush or short-nap roller. Cover an area slightly wider than the wallpaper strip, from the ceiling line to the baseboard.
3. Position the dry strip against the pasted wall, aligning the edge with your plumb line. Leave 2 inches of overlap at the ceiling.
4. Smooth from center outward with your plastic smoother. The paste underneath grabs the backing as you smooth.
5. Wipe excess paste from seams and edges with a damp sponge before it sets.

Non-woven holds its dimension during install (it does not expand or shrink with the wet paste), which means less seam drift than older paper backings. This is why most top wallpaper is now non-woven.

How to Hang Peel-and-Stick Wallpaper

Peel-and-stick is the most forgiving wallpaper to install. The pressure-sensitive adhesive grips lightly at first, which lets you reposition. For the full step-by-step including outlet cuts and pattern matching, see our How to Apply Peel and Stick Wallpaper.

The short version: peel the release liner from the top 12 inches, position the strip against your plumb line, smooth from center outward, then peel and smooth in sections as you work down the strip.

Hang the First Strip Straight with a Plumb Line

The first strip decides whether the whole wall looks right. Three rules apply across every wallpaper type:

1. Align to your plumb line, not to the corner. Wall corners are rarely actually vertical, especially in older homes.
2. Smooth from center outward. This pushes air bubbles toward the edges instead of trapping them.
3. Step back and check after each strip. If the first strip is straight, the rest of the wall will be too. If it is not, fix it before moving on.

Hang Follow-On Strips, Pattern Match, and Trim

For each next strip, the goal is a clean pattern match at the seam.

1. Align the pattern at eye level, not at top or bottom. The eye notices a mismatch at eye level more than at edges.
2. Butt the seam, do not overlap. Modern wallpaper is designed for butt seams, since overlapping creates a visible ridge.
3. Smooth from the seam outward, then continue down the rest of the strip.

If the pattern matches at eye level but drifts at top and bottom, the wall is not perfectly plumb (most are not). Match at eye level and let the drift hide at the ceiling and floor where it is less visible.

Trimming the Top, Bottom, and Edges

Once a strip is fully smoothed and stuck, you have 2 inches of excess paper at the top and bottom that needs trimming. Press a 6-inch metal straight edge or a level firmly into the corner where ceiling meets wall, then run a sharp utility knife along the edge in one continuous motion. Pull the trimmed waste at a 45-degree angle. Repeat for the bottom trimming pass.

For outlets and switches: turn off the power at the breaker first. Hang the wallpaper over the outlet box. Cut diagonally from corner to corner of the box opening. Press the four flaps flat against the inside edge of the box. Trim flush with the box edge.

For windows and doors: hang the wallpaper over the trim, press into the corner where wall meets trim, then trim along the trim edge with your utility knife and straight edge. Replace your utility knife blade often during heavy trimming. A dull blade tears the paper rather than cutting it cleanly.

Will Wallpaper Stick to Other Surfaces?

The standard target is properly primed drywall. Beyond that, results vary.

• Stucco. Wallpaper does not stick reliably to interior stucco. The texture is too irregular and the surface too porous. Skim coat the stucco flat first, or skip wallpaper for that wall.
• Melamine. The smooth, non-porous surface needs special prep. Apply a bonding primer first (made for laminate or melamine), let cure 24 hours, then hang non-woven paste-the-wall or peel-and-stick. Pre-pasted wallpaper does not bond well to melamine.
• Painted drywall. Standard. Works for all wallpaper types provided the paint is fully cured (30 days) and the surface is smooth.
• Bare drywall. Works after a coat of wallpaper primer.
• Plaster. Works on smooth plaster. Heavily textured plaster needs skim coating first.
• Wood paneling. Skim coat the panel grooves smooth first, or use lining paper as a middle layer.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best way to hang wallpaper?

For first-timers, peel-and-stick wallpaper is the most forgiving. For top results and lifespan, non-woven paste-the-wall is the industry standard. Both need the same wall prep: clean, smooth, primed, and a plumb line for the first strip. The "best" method is the one matched to your wallpaper type.

What are the steps for hanging wallpaper?

Identify your wallpaper type, prep the walls, plan the layout, drop a plumb line, cut and prepare the first strip (book pre-pasted, paste the wall for non-woven, peel for peel-and-stick), hang aligned to the plumb line, smooth from center outward, butt-match the next strip's seam, then handle the trimming of excess paper at top and bottom with a sharp utility knife.

How do you prepare walls before hanging wallpaper?

Wipe down with a damp cloth, fill any holes with spackle and sand smooth, confirm paint has cured (wait 30 days after fresh painting), check that the wall is smooth (Level 4 finish), and apply wallpaper primer. Let primer cure 24 hours before hanging.

Will wallpaper stick to stucco?

Not reliably. Interior stucco is too textured and porous for wallpaper to bond evenly. Skim coat the stucco flat with joint compound first, then prime and hang non-woven paste-the-wall.

Will wallpaper stick to melamine?

Yes, with the right prep. Apply a bonding primer made for laminate or melamine surfaces first. Let cure 24 hours. Hang non-woven paste-the-wall or peel-and-stick. Skip pre-pasted wallpaper on melamine.

What wallpaper is out in 2026?

The trend in 2026 favors bold patterns and statement walls over full-room treatments. Heritage and grandmillennial styles have softened in favor of contemporary florals, abstract botanicals, and Japandi-shaped minimal patterns. Standard mid-2010s neutrals (faux concrete, single-color textures) are largely out.

Specifics Most Hangers Ask About

How to find a true plumb line when your level reads "level" but the wall does not

Bubble levels rely on the level itself being held perfectly still and on the floor or ceiling reference being true. In real rooms, neither always is. To find a true plumb line, drop a chalk line from a point near the ceiling weighted at the floor. Gravity makes the line exactly vertical regardless of what the wall looks like. Snap the line against the wall to mark plumb. This is also why pro installers carry a laser level rather than a bubble level: lasers project a true vertical that ignores wall variation.

When to use a wallpaper smoothing brush vs a plastic squeegee

Smoothing brushes are softer and better suited to delicate face materials (grasscloth, foil, hand-printed paper), since they distribute pressure over many bristles instead of one hard edge. Plastic squeegees apply more focused pressure, which makes them better for vinyl-faced wallpaper, peel-and-stick, and any install where you need to push air out aggressively. The middle ground: a felt-edge squeegee, which has firm body but a soft contact edge. Most home installs do fine with the felt-edge tool plus a soft brush for any specialty paper.

What to do when one wall in the room is 1/2 inch off plumb across its height

A wall that is 1/2 inch out of plumb from top to bottom will create visible drift across a wallpaper install with a strong vertical pattern. Three options: pick a busier or random-match pattern that hides the drift, skim coat the wall flat before hanging (adds a day plus drying time), or accept the drift and plan to hide it in a corner where it is least visible. The skim coat is the only fix that produces a truly square install, but it adds material cost and labor.

Our Take

The single best predictor of a good wallpaper install is the prep work done before any wallpaper goes on the wall. A properly cleaned, primed, plumb-lined wall makes any wallpaper type look pro. A rushed or skipped prep step shows up as bubbles, lifted seams, or visible texture within months no matter how careful the install.

Spend 30 to 60 extra minutes on wall prep. Drop a plumb line, not an eyeball alignment to the corner. Replace your utility knife blade after every accent wall. The rest of the install is mechanical. If you have decided which wallpaper type fits your wall, our individual install guides cover the type-specific steps in more detail: How to Apply Peel and Stick Wallpaper for the most forgiving option, or our Peel and Stick vs Traditional Wallpaper if you have not picked yet.

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Last updated: May 2026.